Gate After Gate, and Still No Other Side
On Obon, I walked through real gates all day in Kyoto — the one in my head, after decades of Zen, I still can’t say I’ve crossed

A note before we begin: English is not my first language, and I use AI as a language tool to help me write it. The thinking is mine.
This week is Obon, or by its full name, Urabon’e(盂蘭盆会. In the older Buddhist understanding, these are the summer days when the dead come back for a while to visit the living. Every year I go to Kyoto to stand at my parents’ grave, at a temple called Konkai Kōmyō-ji. Every year, before I head home, I walk the fifteen minutes from there to Nanzen-ji, the Zen temple I used to go to when I was young.
The road between the two runs through a quiet stretch of houses. Almost no tourists come this way. In August there’s little to take in but the heat and the cicadas, which is a kind of relief. Then Nanzen-ji’s great gate, its Sanmon, rises at the end of the approach, and every year, standing under it, I think a version of the same thing.
It’s this. Zen(禅)has been near me for most of my life, in temple rooms in Kyoto, in the long silences of teachers who met a question with what didn’t look like an answer. And I still don’t understand it.
Maybe I simply haven’t studied enough. Twenty years, thirty. I’ve come to think that’s far too short a span to have earned the word understand, or even studied. A hundred might not be enough. So I won’t begin as someone who knows. I’ll begin where I actually am, which this week is a literal place: under a gate in the Kyoto heat, unsure whether I’ve walked through it or am only standing at its edge.
My teachers never gave me clean answers. That was the point. In the tradition of mondō(問答), the question-and-answer exchange at the spine of Zen training, the reply is built not to satisfy but to unsettle. You ask what the Buddha is, and the teacher says: three pounds of flax. You leave more confused than you arrived. You come back. You ask again, differently. You leave confused again.
This went on for years. It went on for years for me.
At some point (I can’t tell you when) something shifted. Not understanding, exactly. Something in how I held the questions loosened. A kind of settling. I thought maybe that was it. Maybe that is what Zen feels like from the inside.
Then people began to ask me about it, and something I didn’t expect happened.
When young people ask me what I actually mean, when foreign friends press me to explain, the settled thing comes loose again. Catherine, a graduate student at Osaka University, once asked me why Zen teaching seems designed to confuse rather than clarify. Nicholas, an American friend I’ve known for years, asked me, with real exasperation, whether any of this is useful, or just beautiful-sounding nonsense.
I couldn’t answer either of them cleanly.
Nicholas runs a company. Professionally, he lives inside what can be counted: revenue, targets, the quarterly line that rises or falls and tells him whether the year was good. When he asks whether Zen is useful, he’s asking the only honest question his world knows how to ask: what does it produce, and how would I see it?
It’s a fair question, and I’ve never had a clean answer. So one evening I tried to walk around it with him.
Almost everything we call growth, we can feel. A company’s, you read on a chart. But even the quiet kinds report back. A musician practices and hears herself getting better. A painter watches his own hand grow surer. I practiced kendo(剣道)for years as a boy, and I can tell you: train hard enough and the strength arrives in your body, and you know it’s there.
The soul sends back no signal at all. No chart, no ear, no muscle reporting that anything has changed. And here is the part I keep circling: if it did, if you could feel your soul growing, that feeling would be proof it hadn’t.
Take me. I was an even-tempered boy, and I’m calmer now than I was then, quieter, less easily moved. It would be easy to call that growth. But the changes I can actually measure tell a plainer story. My body is weaker than it was ten years ago; there’s no arguing with that. My mind may be going the same way, a little slower each year, though that’s harder to catch from the inside.
So when every part of me I can measure is on its way down, on what authority do I announce that the one part I can’t measure, the soul, is the exception, the single thing still climbing? I have no instrument fine enough to tell settling from decay. One thing does increase, and measurably: what I know. Whether knowledge is growth, though, I couldn’t tell you. And the years we’re given feel far too short to find out.
That was the answer I gave Nicholas: no answer at all, only a longer set of questions. And that is exactly when it happens. Each time I fail to hand someone what they came for, a new texture surfaces in what I thought I’d already understood. Their questions keep opening rooms. Was what I knew only the entrance? Maybe I had only ever crossed the gate. Maybe there is no other side.
Much later, I learned the not-knowing already had a name, eight centuries old, from a Chinese collection of kōans(公案): daidō mumon(大道無門), the great Way has no gate. I think of that phrase under the Sanmon, of all places. The name of the gate means the three barriers you’re supposed to pass through on the way to waking up, and there I stand beneath it, holding a line that says there was never a gate to pass. For decades I’d searched for a door I had, it turns out, already walked through. Or that was never there.

I was born in 1965. My teachers, at the age I am now, were answering a young student named Takeshi. I wonder if they felt what I feel: this braid of settled and unsettled, knowing and not-knowing. Whether they were performing wisdom or living honestly in its absence. I suspect the latter. I think that’s what made their non-answers feel like something real.
A culture built on kōan and mondō does something quiet to the people raised inside it. Across generations, it trains you not to resolve. You learn to hold a question open and unclosed, to live beside it without demanding that it clear. I didn’t choose this. I absorbed it before I could name it, and somewhere along the line it stopped being philosophy and became, simply, the air.
But I don’t think the question is ours. If Zen were a tool that grew the soul, then everyone who never met it, everyone raised outside Japan, would be stunted, and that’s plainly false. Zen didn’t invent the not-knowing. It only built it a room and gave it a name. Under other names, in other rooms, people everywhere sit with the same unanswerable thing. Nicholas has no word for it and no practice; his exasperation is the question. He was already living it when he asked.
Which is why I can’t hand it to you in sentences. I can describe its shape. I can circle it. But the thing itself doesn’t travel in words. There’s a frustration I’ve watched land more than once: someone follows a careful explanation, nods, and says, I think I get it. And I think: you’ve understood what it points to. You haven’t stood where it points.
And then I think: neither have I. Not completely. Not finally.
I don’t know if any of this reaches you. Most days I suspect it doesn’t. But when I think of my teachers, patient, unhurried, circling the same questions for decades, I think the point was never to arrive.
Obon ends, the way it does. I turn from the Sanmon and walk back the way I came, past the same quiet houses, the cicadas still at it, and somewhere along that road I stop thinking about gates and start wondering what to eat. Nothing has been settled. No far side has shown itself. Nicholas would want a port on the map and a distance crossed off; I have a heading toward the rising sun and a horizon that sits exactly as far off as it did this morning. I’m hungry. The road is hot. I keep walking.
The earth is round. There’s no starting line. There’s no finish line. There’s just the heading you hold, and the walking.
Takeshi Kitagawa heads the SHIBUMIWORKS PROJECT, which aims to introduce Japanese culture. Rooted in his years of Kendo, Zen, and Shinto practice, the project explores whether these traditions have anything real to offer modern life―without pretending they have all the answers.
English is not my first language; I use AI as a linguistic tool to bridge that gap. The thinking is mine. The words are a collaboration.



